Frequently Asked Questions

Solid hardwood is milled from single pieces of wood and can be sanded multiple times over decades. Engineered hardwood uses a plywood base with a hardwood veneer top layer, offering better moisture resistance and stability in basements or over concrete. Solid works best above grade in climate-controlled spaces, while engineered handles fluctuating humidity better.

The process involves drum sanding to remove old finish and surface damage, progressively finer sanding to smooth the wood, stain application if changing color, and protective finish coats. MP Hardwood Flooring uses dust-minimized equipment to reduce airborne particles. The bare wood accepts stain differently based on species and grain, so test areas determine final color.

Choose LVP for high-moisture areas like basements, bathrooms, and kitchens where waterproof protection is essential. It's also better for homes with large dogs, active families, or renters wanting wood appearance without permanent installation. Hardwood offers better long-term value and refinishing options but requires climate control and careful moisture management.

Yes, individual boards can be replaced by cutting out damaged sections and weaving in new wood. Matching existing flooring requires identifying the wood species, plank width, and finish color. Older floors may need custom milling to match thickness and profile. The repair area is sanded and refinished to blend with surrounding boards.

Squeaks occur when subfloor movement allows floorboards to rub against each other or fasteners. Repairs involve securing loose boards to the subfloor with screws, adding shims between joists and subfloor, or inserting lubricant between boards. Access from below makes repairs easier, but surface repairs work when ceiling access isn't available.

These patterns require precise 45-degree or angled cuts for every single board, creating significantly more labor and material waste. Each piece must align perfectly with adjacent boards to maintain the pattern. Installation takes two to three times longer than straight layouts, and material waste increases by 15-20% due to cutting requirements.

Connecticut's seasonal humidity swings cause solid hardwood to expand in summer and contract in winter, creating gaps or cupping without proper acclimation and climate control. Engineered hardwood handles these fluctuations better due to its layered construction. Homes without central air conditioning face higher risk of seasonal movement and finish cracking.

Floating floors click together and rest on underlayment without adhesive, allowing easier removal and installation over existing floors. Glue-down systems bond directly to the subfloor, creating a permanent installation with better sound dampening and stability. Floating works better for DIY or temporary installations, while glue-down suits commercial spaces and basements.

Minor water damage causing surface discoloration can be sanded out during refinishing. Cupping from moisture underneath often flattens once the source is fixed and wood dries completely. Severe damage with warping, black staining, or mold growth requires board replacement. The subfloor must be inspected and dried before any repair.

All furniture is removed, then floors are sanded through multiple grits to remove finish and level the surface. Stain is applied if changing color, followed by 2-3 coats of polyurethane or oil finish with drying time between coats. The space must remain unoccupied during sanding and finishing, with full curing taking several days.

Engineered hardwood can be installed directly over concrete slabs using glue-down methods, while solid requires wood subfloor. It's dimensionally stable during the construction drying period when humidity fluctuates. Wide plank engineered options offer contemporary looks that solid hardwood can't achieve without movement issues. Installation is often faster for large commercial projects.

Matching requires identifying the exact species, plank width, grain pattern, and finish sheen of existing floors. New wood is milled to match thickness and profile, then installed and finished separately before blending the transition. Color matching involves custom stain mixing since new wood accepts stain differently than aged wood.